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Thread: Anyone try this lift kit from Russia?

  1. #71
    Is there a way to get something stiffer for the rear? I really need more weight capacity. Eventually, I'd like to put a swing-away spare tire carrier on a custom rear bumper with integrated 2" receiver, and put a second fuel tank in the spare tire location.

  2. #72
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Greensburg, PA
    Posts
    350
    Supposedly The Mad springs have stiffer rear rates, but you'll lose most of the up travel in the front with their 2" diesel coils. The petrol springs offer a little over 1" of lift, but they are the same price as the diesel springs which is around $400-500 USD.

    You could use a RRO rear lift in conjunction with the Euro springs for a 3" lift in the back.

    Or an air spring that fits inside of the rear coils.

    Not a lot of options for the platform.
    Last edited by Ricer_X_01; February 3rd, 2019 at 12:02 PM.
    2007 Suzuki SX4 hatch awd
    2011 Nissan Xterra PRO-4X
    1992 Nissan Sentra SE-R

  3. #73
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Bay Area
    Posts
    47
    I like the idea of using the euro springs. An extra 1 inch would be nice.
    I like the lift I already have with my kit but I feel like the front could be a little higher up. The rear already sit nice and high.

  4. #74
    Is there anything required that does not come with the lift, like Camber Bolts? Shocks? What else?

    I am planning to install this lift with Euro springs in March.

  5. #75
    Quote Originally Posted by Risk Everything View Post
    Is there anything required that does not come with the lift, like Camber Bolts? Shocks? What else?

    I am planning to install this lift with Euro springs in March.
    I'm also looking at doing this lift in April, or a mix of kanook front, russian back to even things out a bit. Although it's not for the russian kit specifically, a guy named Josh_sx4 on here suggests upgrading the sway links to beefy mustang sway links for offroad use and replacing the bushings with polyurethane bushings while you're in there.
    Link for Sway Links: Here

    He needed Camber Bolts set 81260 (14mm) for his 2 inch lift. He said every retailer suggested Camber Bolts set 81250 (12mm) but this was apparently not the correct size from his experience. I don't think they are required for just the 30mm russian lift. At least in my searching I haven't seen a mention of them but not as many people have reported back on these kits so I don't know for sure.

    If you change your wheels for the lift, most people suggest hubscentric rings if the wheel you are moving to has a larger hub. For instance, many people use Jeep ecco wheels. You'd need 71.5 - 60.1mm hubcentric rings.

    It sounds like for the 2 inch lift, you'd need the RRO rear shock mount, but after looking at the instructions for the Russian lift, it appears they take care of it with an extension at the top of the shock. I'd like someone to confirm, as I cant say for certain, but I'm relatively certain it's not needed if you install the russian kit properly.
    Last edited by Papa Oso; March 6th, 2019 at 07:54 AM.

  6. #76
    After installing my Russian lift, I've had all kinds of issues with my front wheels.

    I immediately took it in to be aligned after the install, but it kept making this rubber on rubber type squeaking noise when turning - most notably when turning the maximum to the left or right.

    I tried all kinds of things, such as tightening the struts more, lubricating parts, etc.. Finally after driving it for a couple months, I went to swap to winter tires, and was horrified to find the outer edge of my brand new tires were almost completely worn away. The caster/camber is off in a big way, and come to find out, the rubber noise I have been hearing, was where the strut bolts on under the hood - the plate was being forced to flex when turning.

    I'm going to try taking it to a different shop on Monday and see if they can't get it aligned properly. But honestly, the only adjustment you can make that I know of, is at the outer tie rods. I got some camber bolts to see if that would do the trick, but it hardly did a thing. Maybe all it is is the tie rods, which means the shop I took it to didn't do a thing.

  7. #77
    Hey guys, I'm kind of new here. I just got the Russian lift and I'm not seeing how the sway bar links stay connected. Did I screw something up? Any help Will be appreciated.

    Aaron

  8. #78
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Greensburg, PA
    Posts
    350
    Not sure I understand your question...


    Here's what it should like (pic borrowed from josh_sx4)





    Those are upgraded links in the picture. The oem links will need an allen key inside the nuts to keep them from spinning when tightening.
    Last edited by Ricer_X_01; April 17th, 2019 at 09:10 AM.
    2007 Suzuki SX4 hatch awd
    2011 Nissan Xterra PRO-4X
    1992 Nissan Sentra SE-R

  9. #79
    Thanks for the reply. Yesterday when I was working on it the link seemed to long. It hung way past the sway bar. Today I had to put the wheel back to move the car and when I took the wheel off everything lined right up. I must have had it jacked up weird.

  10. #80
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Greensburg, PA
    Posts
    350
    Yeah the car will need to be level when jacked up off the ground. You should not remove/install them with just one side of the car jacked up... you technically can, but work smart not hard
    Last edited by Ricer_X_01; April 17th, 2019 at 11:52 AM.
    2007 Suzuki SX4 hatch awd
    2011 Nissan Xterra PRO-4X
    1992 Nissan Sentra SE-R

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