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Thread: driving awd as a fwd only - no prop shaft - can you do that

  1. #11
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Ottawa, Ontario
    Posts
    1,134
    Did your mechanic turn the wheel by hand and heard the noise ftom rear diff unit? In neutral..
    2007AWD auto.188k km..K/N air filter,AUX input,Group34 Battery
    Fixes..alternator,swybarlnk,cntrlarm,innertierod,P wiperarm,Rexhaustjnt,Raxleseals,Ujoints,idler,tens ioner pulleys.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Posts
    6

    Do no know if mechanic turned the wheel by hand

    Quote Originally Posted by CF7 View Post
    Did your mechanic turn the wheel by hand and heard the noise ftom rear diff unit? In neutral..
    However the mechanical clang was once every 8 feet - so unless he moved the wheel 8 feet he might not have encountered it.

    His solution is to get a used differential from a bone yard and replace the one i have. APX $350 + $500 labor.

    Would I also need to put new bearings for each axel at the same time as they fail per journeyman?

    The car has 270,000 miles so it is time for some wear issues to arise other than brakes and wheel bearings.

    The car was started at 18 below zero and the clanging noise was heard at that time.

    I am not sure if i should be passing this car down the road to someone more mechanical. I have other vehicles.

    Thou I really like this one as I bought it new and it has a long of functionality.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Chicoutimi, Quebec, Canada
    Posts
    410
    Quote Originally Posted by habber View Post
    ...the mechanic said the differential still turns even with out the driveshaft and the ring gear (bad tooth) will still engage? If it is driven - by the rotation of the rear wheels alone.
    His solution is to get a used differential from a bone yard and replace the one i have. APX $350 + $500 labor.
    That is what my question is. Is that true? Thankyou again.
    All of the above is right. ANd the solution offered is reasomable. Bearings can be paid attention...the main cause of failure is failed seals, which might explain the lack of lubricating fluid on yours....
    Last edited by LMP; January 14th, 2018 at 11:07 AM.
    2011 sx4 JX AWD CVT 32000km

  4. #14
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Ottawa, Ontario
    Posts
    1,134
    270k miles..that is really good...what had been done with this carin maintences..
    When you clanging noise...car is moving or in idle?
    If idle ..check your belt pulleys.. etc
    If it is moving,. Suspension check.
    2007AWD auto.188k km..K/N air filter,AUX input,Group34 Battery
    Fixes..alternator,swybarlnk,cntrlarm,innertierod,P wiperarm,Rexhaustjnt,Raxleseals,Ujoints,idler,tens ioner pulleys.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Posts
    6
    the maintenence was oil change - 7000 miles. but always checking oil. 2 wheel bearings. Tires as needed. Prop shaft ujoint.

    This vehicle has really been a workhorse. pulled trailer 500+ times.

    Worked great for pulling out pontoon also.

    Driven daily in all weather, many times crosscountry.

    The clanking was only in motion - every 8 feet.

    Average 28.2 mpg.

    Best suzuki I have owned. I have had 3 others over the Years. All 225,000 plus and still running when sold.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Posts
    6
    thankyou for replying - To my limited knowledge your solution here seems to be the most economical way to go. I have 2 other 4whl drive vehicles we use up here in Mn.

    One of them is new so I really only want to drive it as little as possible due to depreciation.

    My brother can help me with your solution if i can explain it intelligently - I am only trying to utilize the sx4 now as 2wh drive. (paid for long ago)

    Am I correct in saying remove the rear prop shaft so the ring gear does not turn. Then remove the axel shafts on both sides as they just bolt on to the differential as per a video on changing the seal and flange on utube.

    Are the bearings you are referring to the ones in the end of the axel shaft that bolts to the differential? (inside the boot)

    Also doesnt the axel that is bolted on the outside of the wheel hub - go thru the inside of the axel shaft? If i remove axel shaft what holds the axel in place?

    Aren't

    the rear wheel bearings on the inside of the wheel hub on the axel shaft?

    (The purpose of the these steps is so the spider gears dont turn (no axelshafts) same as the ring gear not turning? (no prop shaft))

    (Am i understanding this correctly?)

    lastly does the axel shafts keep the rear wheels from falling inward or aligned?

    I am also not understanding - the external part of the cv joint installed in the wheel hub? How would that be done?


    I know what i want to do is kind of mickey mouse but the car is not worth that much and I would hate to sell it for parts.


    Because the seals on the differential can leak - I probably am not the only one who might have experienced this problem

    and subsequently am looking for an economical yet safe solution to getting a few extra miles out of their sx4.

    Thanks again.

  7. #17
    I'm going to start with the rear wheel bearings...

    As the rear wheel drive axles turn, it spins the entire differential, which also spins the ring gear. As it spins, it also clashes teeth with the "pinion" gear. So, just removing the "propeller shaft" which is what connects the front wheels to the rear wheels, won't stop the gears from turning. To make that happen, the rear drive axles (CV axles) need to be removed.

    At each of the rear wheels (and front wheels) the CV axle doubles as a great big nut and bolt that holds the rear wheel bearings together. Without this, the bearings can literally fall apart while driving down the road and it won't be pretty. To get around this, you can just use an approximately 1 1/4" diameter nut and bolt to go in there to keep the bearings clamped together. Then you can drive it indefinitely in the 2wd mode.

    You know what--you should just fix it. Going through all this Macgyverism is just going to cost about the same amount as just replacing the rear differential with a used unit from a salvage yard. They cost anywhere from $125 - $210 from the "local" yards in Minnesota. There are some automatic transmission ones in Fountain City, WI, Albert Lea, and Winona. For a manual transmission one, Sharp auto parts in Stillwater has one (Bayport), Viking auto salvage in Northfield, and a place in Albert Lea has one.

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