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Thread: J20B intake using BMC CDA

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
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    Southern Ontario
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    Cool J20B intake using BMC CDA

    I know Samus has already done a nice how-to on his K&N Apollo, this is very similar except with a BMC CDA. This is basically to show that you can use a different style filter box if you want.

    What you'll need:

    -2 hose clamps (2.5")
    -3 hose clamps (3") - comes in the kit
    -3 to 2.5" reducer - comes in the kit
    -BMC CDA filter box (or chinese copy in my case which is exactly the same)
    -3" accordion pipe - comes in the kit
    -J20A airbox (I'll explain why J20A later)

    Optional things:

    -4 more hose clamps (2.5) if you don't want to reuse the stock worm clamps (I prefer t-bolt style clamps)
    -2 silicone couplers (90 degree, 2.5") - I'll explain why you need 2 in the write up
    -short piece of 2.5" straight tubing
    -catch can (two port style)



    First thing to do is cut out the maf housing from your extra airbox. If you don't want to source another airbox you can use your J20B airbox, but you have to be very careful when cutting out the maf housing because there isn't much length to clamp on to on the inlet side. But it is doable (I used a J20B airbox for this write up). J20A maf housing is a lot longer and would be much easier to use. For this you can use a dremel or a hacksaw, but if you're lucky enough to have a bandsaw and a belt sander, that's definitely the easiest method. Once you do this, you should be left with this:



    Then you have to remove your stock intake. Unplug your maf sensor and loosen the worm clamp on that side. Then take out the 10mm bolt on the left side of the airbox. Then remove rubber pipe going to the snorkel. After that it's as simple as pulling straight up and there are 3 snaps on the bottom that should eventually give up and let go. Once it's out, switch over the maf to the other housing. Two phillips screws is all that's holding it in place. You should already have the new BMC intake put together with the maf housing facing the correct way by now, so just slide it in place and tighten the clamps. To fit the 3" accordion pipe over the snorkel inlet you have to add a spacer as the opening is 2.75". I just cut a piece off a 3" rubber hose, then cut out a small section so that it fit perfectly around the snorkel inlet and then slide the accordion pipe over that and tighten it down. I cut the supplied accordion pipe almost in half for it to be the right length. I don't think any form of mounting tab is necessarily needed as it's pretty sturdy as is, but I used the supplied steel bracket, bent one side and drilled a hole to fit it around the 12mm bolt on top of the tranny that holds the old airbox mounts, cut it to length and just bolted it to the clamp that goes around the intake. Then you should have this:



    If you don't want to bother with a catch can because you're an environmentalist or because you live somewhere that involves visual inspections, then you're done! Finish reading here because you'll probably get upset with this next part.

    For anyone who wants the added benefits of using a catch can, it gets a little more involved. You need to take your two 90deg silicon couplers and the small piece of 2.5" piping and put them together using the stock piece as a template. You're just making an "S" and then flip one of the silicon couplers 90deg. You want to do this so that your intake retains the natural slope towards the front of the engine bay. This is so that all the condensation/water doesn't run towards the engine. Once that's in place you'll be left with the oil vapour hose not hooked up to anything.

    Where I mounted the catch can was in place of one of the snaps on the hood cowl. It's easy to access, you can still use your engine cover, and there's already a hole there. Simply use a stainless bolt, two washers, and a 1/2" spacer between the catch can mounting tab and the cowl (this may differ depending on your catch can you're using). Tighten it down, and it should look something like this:



    To hook it up, I just cut the oil vapour hose from the cam cover shorter, and then using a dremel I cut out a piece of the engine cover on the side so route it easier and so it wasn't creased. Then you're done! I'm not expecting to see any oil in the catch can on a regular basis. It's not a forced induction engine, so don't expect a lot. This is just for the peace of mind that zero oil vapour will be running through your engine. There are numerous benefits to this: no build up on the intake valves, no more reducing your octane levels, less chance of clogging your cat at an accelerated rate, just to name a few. Just make sure you check your local laws and see if this is legal. Technically speaking you didn't modify your PVC system at all, you're just changing where the vapour is being routed.

    Performance/sound gains: This will obviously differ for everyone depending on your setup. I can't say I notice any more induction noise, but keep in mind I do have an exhaust so I'm sure that will overpower any noise differences anyways. What I did notice was initial throttle input being a lot more responsive. This is actually a very nice improvement for anyone with a manual as you shift between gears. Why I noticed a major difference in this area I think was because I have a performance ECU remap. I think I've been running rich, and the latest addition of my exhaust and this intake has really gotten the AFR's into the sweet spot. Because of this, you'll notice immediate power while shifting, which makes the vehicle feel like it has a very nice bump in mid-range power. Whether you'll notice the same difference on a stock tune and stock vehicle, I'm not sure. And don't think you'll reap the benefits while still running 87 octane. To feel this difference you will absolutely need to run 91 octane. With 87 the engine still pulls timing after the initial throttle input.

    This really couldn't get any simpler for J20B owners. From start to finish it shouldn't take you any more than 1hr (including hacking apart the airbox). As far as buying a real BMC intake kit or a chinese copy, that's up to you. But I have a buddy with a genuine BMC box and it's actually light in weight than my chinese copy and uses softer plastic for the inlet and outlet. Dimensions are identical and so is the filter, so I believe you can buy BMC filters for it and they should work fine. I saw zero difference in the filter as well. So it's up to you if you want to spend $70 on a chinese copy or $200+ on a genuine BMC kit. I usually don't like promoting buying chinese copy because of the R&D that goes into designing these parts should be accounted for, but for universal products like this I really don't see a problem with it.

    Enjoy
    Last edited by Wagoneer; January 21st, 2016 at 11:50 AM.
    '11 SX4 AWD 6-spd, '07 Grand Vitara V6, '01 GS500
    Father's: '12 Kizashi Sport & '12 Grand Vitara
    Proud owners of the entire North American Suzuki line-up

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada
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    Awesome write-up! Now you got me thinking on that catch can... Really good idea for us na guys. Where did you buy yours?
    AWD 2013. CVT. Custom SRI w/Apollo, RRM Crank Pulley, RRM piggyback ecu, Custom 2.25 Flowmaster exhaust, RRM Front/Rear Swaybars, UR Rear Strut bar, Megan Racing Coilovers, Techna-fit brake lines, Projector HID retrofit.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Southern Ontario
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    eBay. It's not a return system, so no need for a fancy one. It's about $40 for a 500mL aluminum filtered can.
    '11 SX4 AWD 6-spd, '07 Grand Vitara V6, '01 GS500
    Father's: '12 Kizashi Sport & '12 Grand Vitara
    Proud owners of the entire North American Suzuki line-up

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
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    Southern Ontario
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    Forgot to post a full engine bay shot to show how everything fits in. Don't mind the dirty engine bay, it's salt season here in Ontario. It was also very very wet the last time I went off roading and I didn't bother cleaning anything.

    '11 SX4 AWD 6-spd, '07 Grand Vitara V6, '01 GS500
    Father's: '12 Kizashi Sport & '12 Grand Vitara
    Proud owners of the entire North American Suzuki line-up

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Southern Ontario
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    I also forgot to mention how I mounted the filter itself. The filter same with a bracket that just happened to be the perfect length. I flattened out the little lip it came with using a vice and just bent a 90deg angle at the end and drilled a hole. Then I bolted it so it was sticking straight up using the front 12mm bolt that holds the airbox mount on the tranny. It just happens to be perfectly in the center of the filter exactly where it needs to be to go through the bolt on the filter bracket.



    This is all that's needed to stop the filter from having any movement at all.
    '11 SX4 AWD 6-spd, '07 Grand Vitara V6, '01 GS500
    Father's: '12 Kizashi Sport & '12 Grand Vitara
    Proud owners of the entire North American Suzuki line-up

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
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    PDX
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    Nice write up and install.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
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    Brownbackistan,CSA
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    Absolutely Excellent! Where can I go for those SX Porn pics in this write up?
    The ABSOLUTE BEST car under $20K with AWD any where in Rome!

    Now "Mighty Mouse" runs like a Dothriki Whore, on horse heart 1$ night!"

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Posts
    111
    yes same here id like to see the pics from this write up

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Southern Ontario
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    I really have no idea where they went, who knows with photobucket. I'll reupload them.
    '11 SX4 AWD 6-spd, '07 Grand Vitara V6, '01 GS500
    Father's: '12 Kizashi Sport & '12 Grand Vitara
    Proud owners of the entire North American Suzuki line-up

  10. #10
    Photobucket just changed all of their web hosting policies, and is trying to charge now!! Google it, its bad.

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