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Thread: brake/clutch fluid change

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Boise, ID
    Posts
    328
    Quote Originally Posted by Schultzey View Post
    Yeah that's how much I picked up for the clutch and brakes. Two DOT 4 500 ml bottles (2 US quarts).
    Not to nitpick, but two 500 ml bottles is one liter or just a bit more than ONE US quart.
    Feline mechanics Condoleezza Mice and Duke Wayne
    2011 SX4 Crossover, 1996 beater Miata, 2000 Porsche Boxster

  2. #12
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    1,427
    Gravity bleeding the brakes until the fluid runs clear at each wheel WILL use a lot of fluid. Alway better to be safe than sorry. Once the fluid runs clear the capture container is full of contaminated fluid and should be safely discarded.

  3. #13
    A Mighty Vac works good for me for a one man operation.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Mitten
    Posts
    104
    Dumb question but just hoping for an easy answer... Getting ready to bleed my brakes in the next week or so, and will do clutch at the same time. Haven't had a chance to look around the car much yet, but where is the clutch bleeder screw on a 2012 6speed? Is it under the air intake box?
    Anyone here ever hook up an extension so it's easier to remote bleed?
    Thanks

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Mitten
    Posts
    104
    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedHoles View Post
    Dumb question but just hoping for an easy answer... Getting ready to bleed my brakes in the next week or so, and will do clutch at the same time. Haven't had a chance to look around the car much yet, but where is the clutch bleeder screw on a 2012 6speed? Is it under the air intake box?
    Anyone here ever hook up an extension so it's easier to remote bleed?
    Thanks


    To answer my own question, and anyone else reading in the future;
    The clutch bleeder screw is indeed under the airbox of the J20B, and for some reason aiming at a 45deg angle toward the engine and under a bracket. Somewhat frustrating to access, even with airbox removed.

    I utilized a Motion Pro bleed tool (motorcycle tool company) which is basically a 1-way check valve, to keep from getting air back into the clutch line while pumping. This also helps because there is limited room down there for a wrench to repeatedly open and close the bleeder nipple.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    119
    I need to do a brake & clutch fluid change. I would need to spend $50 on a Mighty Vac to do it myself? My mechanic charges $100 an hour and lets me supply the parts.. seems like I should take to him. Anyways thanks for the instructions @Schultzey I'll print them out and keep them in case I find a helper.
    2009 Crossover AWD Manual

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    PDX
    Posts
    2,761
    The instructions aren't perfect as there are a few typos in there but you get the general idea.

    Another option you have is to use speed bleders on the brakes.

    For the clutch I recently used a universal hood prop to push the pedal down and hold it there with the other end of the prop against the driver's seat. Open the bleeder valve and watch the fluid go into the catch can and close the bleeder as the fluid slows. The prop rod is then removed to let go of the pedal. The prop rod was positioned again to depress the pedal and the process was repeated until no more air was exiting the bleeder valve. It didn't take too long using this process since the line is short.

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