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Thread: Schultzey's Turbo SX4

  1. #461
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Mitten
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    144
    Quote Originally Posted by Ricer_X_01 View Post
    This is interesting so I had to check for myself... Although I don't see 350z listed as a cross reference I did find that a lot of Nissan's are interchangeable for the front pads. Check out RockAuto and click on the product part numbers for a cross reference list. (edit: missed where you commented and said you were looking on RA already)

    I had a 2001 Sentra and happen to have a near new set of Axxis pads sitting in my garage that were on it before I went with 4 pot Brembo's. Next time I have the front wheels off the sx4 I will have to see if they do in fact fit. Good find!

    /endthreadjack



    Edit: just noticed your comment on another thread about removing your seats and then realized who you were, lol. Didn't know your screen name on here.

    Haha yep, that's me.

    Yeah, it seems many pads are compatible, but it seems some for certain Nissan's might not come with the proper clips or shims, although the pad is the correct shape.
    I see some front pad part numbers are same for multiple cars, but the SX4 adds an "a" to the end of the Nissan number.

    Rears are same as same year civics and some s2000.

  2. #462
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    PDX
    Posts
    2,810
    It's been a while since I posted updates on the build. To catch up, info about the the parts used in the engine build are posted below along with the part numbers for reference.

    Darton MID Sleeves - 800-100

    Pauter 4340 Connecting Rods - SUZ-210-530-1430F


    Manley Custom Pistons - 581200-4


    ARP Head Stud Kit M11x1.5 - Fits J20A and CA18DET/CA18 - ARP Kit #: 202-4302
    Note that the Suzuki M16A ARP Head Stud Kit does not fit.

    The head had some light porting for a light clean up and to knock down the exhaust riser.

    The ARP M16A Flywheel Bolt Kit is compatible with the flywheel of the SX4 - ARP Kit # 171-2801


    The ARP M16A Pressure Plate Bolt Kit is compatible with the pressure plate on the J20A - ARP Kit #: 171-2201


    Clutch Masters FX400 Clutch Kit - 04109-HDCL


    Beatrush Alternator Pulley for Suzuki Swift Sport ZC31S - S98041PB - Appears to be discontinued


    Last edited by Schultzey; August 2nd, 2019 at 10:45 PM.

  3. #463
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
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    A few small mods have been done in the interim.

    Audi TT Mk1 antenna delete plug


    My resonator was scraping over speed bumps and didn't reduce noise much. This was replace with new stainless pipe for additional ground clearance.
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    The chrome tail pipe was also removed in favor of a black exhaust tip.


    During the projector retrofit I resealed the headlights too soon after painting. The result was some oxidation on the inside of the headlights. Just the headlight lenses were able to be sourced from http://www.headlight-headlamp.com/Su...epair-Fix.html. The lenses did have a larger hole to mount the reflector piece. I found that the 65-68 Mustang headlight retaining screws worked to hold mount the lenses. New butyl glue was sourced from the retrofit source and my headlights look new again.

  4. #464
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    PDX
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    2,810

    Radium Fuel Surge Tank - Tank Install / Plumbing

    To address all fueling needs I installed a universal Radium Fuel Surge Tank (FST) with 2 Bosch 044 fuel pumps. This will also prevent any fuel starvation. I plan to run E85 to keep it simple with one fuel source. My methanol kit has been removed.

    New FST Parts along with fuel filter, analog/digital pressure sensors, and Turbosmart FPR 1200.


    Putting together the tank and mock up of pumps.


    I put some thought into where I wanted to mount everything and how to route the lines. Initially I looked for places to mount it under the car but there weren't any good mounting locations. The EVAP canister tray looked like it would work but the FST ended up being too large.


    The hatch appeared to be the best mounting location as I could use mounting points from the methanol kit tray previously welded in. I planned to use PTFE hose which does not allow the fuel to permeate making it safe to use inside the cabin. A large piece of aluminum was sourced and a mounting tray began to take shape.


    The layout of the FST, fuel filter, fuel content analyzer, and fuel pressure regulator (FPR) were moved around figure out locations that would work.


    While routing the lines the plan to mount everything kept changing to make it work.


    The fuel line to the injectors, FST feed line from the factory fuel pump, and fuel return line were run up to the bulkhead fittings.


    The fuel tank was dropped in order to make the fuel line connections. The pump had to be removed to drill a hole for the fuel return.


    Adaptor fittings to transition from factory line to -6AN were available to easily connect the lines to the factory pump and line to the injectors.


    All connections were completed back up to the other end of the bulkhead fittings.

  5. #465
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    Radium Fuel Surge Tank - Wiring / Final Touches

    Now that all the lines were plumbed I had to wire it up. The grounding of the fuel pumps were done first followed by the install of the relays.


    Fused power to the relays were mounted in front of the driver's side fender out of the way.


    The fuel pumps are designed to tap into the factory fuel pump trigger so they turn on with the factory pump. The pink wire (#10) of connector E387 coming out of the junction box was tapped into but it was routed to two switches so I can have control of them. This was helpful during the priming of the tank so the Bosch 044s were not pushing air.


    The black wires are ground, the purple are from the fuel pump trigger, and the blue lines run back to the relays. The switches light up when the pumps are running.


    With the wires routed and fuel lines tested for leaks the gas tank was fitted back in place. Rubber isolation mounts were added to the front end of the aluminum tray for added stability.


    To clean up the look I ordered a sheet of thin carbon fiber to lay over the top of the aluminum. All parts were removed and the carbon fiber piece was cut to fit and drilled.


    Everything was reinstalled and this part of the project wrapped up.

  6. #466
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Mitten
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    144
    Nice work as always! The Radium parts are top notch.

  7. #467
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada
    Posts
    1,804
    Good progress my man. Ingenuity at it's best.

    I noticed my headlights fogging from the inside too because of the paint.... even stained both projectors.

    Got some new lenses.... just waiting for the wife to leave so I can pop them in the oven
    AWD 2013. CVT. Custom SRI w/Apollo, RRM Crank Pulley, RRM piggyback ecu, Custom 2.25 Flowmaster exhaust, RRM Front/Rear Swaybars, Megan Racing Coilovers, Techna-fit brake lines, AC bypass, Projector HID retrofit.

  8. #468
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
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    PDX
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    2,810
    Thanks Speedholes and Samus. Lol I hear you about waiting for the SO to leave before putting the headlights in the oven. I used the heat gun method this last time. It takes a little longer but doesn't smell as bad.

  9. #469
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
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    PDX
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    Here are some more progress updates. The Braille battery I was using died and it was replaced with an Odyssey PC680MJT. The height of the Odyssey was taller than the Braille and the hold down over the battery, oil catch can, and coolant overflow would no longer work. This part of the engine bay was rearranged to work with the new battery and planned modifications.

    Battery Hold Down
    Using the existing battery hold down as a template, I traced out the layout onto a new sheet of .090" aluminum sheet to use as a new attachment point for the battery.


    To affix the battery to the aluminum sheet I used the Odyssey Battery HK-PC680 Hold Down Kit.



    Oil Catch Can
    The oil catch can was picked up off amazon. To mount the can I had to get a little creative and found a wall mounted shelf to modify as an attachment point.


    New AN lines were run to the catch can and the K&N breather vent from the old catch can was added to the unit. One nice feature of this version is the dipstick in the can to show the fluid level inside.



    Coolant Overflow
    A universal coolant overflow can was also ordered off Amazon. The cap is a sealed design and was drilled out to allow it to be vented. A STEDI 75-77mm Bull Bar Light Mounting Bracket was used for the mount.



    Here is the result of the current engine bay update.

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