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Thread: Ureka! REAR SHOCKS THAT FIT AND WORK AWSOME!!!!

  1. #111
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Louisville, Ky
    Posts
    533
    Thanks for the info! I hope I can get them working as well. I wonder if I got a defective set or something, I know from my research people have gotten bad ones.

    I am going to mess around a little more before giving up.
    2009 MT, 17x8 Drag DR-38, General G-Max AS03, Eibach Pro Kit, Koni Yellows Rear, RRM Rear Sway, RRM CAI, RRM Piggy, RRM Pulley, Magnaflow 14210, Primitive Skids, Rally Armor Flaps, Hella Horns, Lathe Werks Shift Knob, All Synthetic Oils

  2. #112
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Northwest , CT , USA
    Posts
    20
    hey so i cant get a good picture without taking it all apart but if you look at page 409 in the sx4 manual( its the same one posted somewhere on the forum although i was given a disc copy by the guy i bought the car from) if you don't have a copy i can email you one. It says 22ft lbs for the top nut and 65ft lbs for the bottom. I used an impact wrench to put the bottom on so its probably more than that as the nut is fully threaded but i don't have the swaybar so it shouldn't go on that far for you.

  3. #113
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Northwest , CT , USA
    Posts
    20
    I don't see how you could be topping out the shock , It would be really hard to do on road and the shocks are only a tiny bit shorter also they are the same size as the Monroe's that everyone else has used for the back so i would think they would be having the same issue.
    did you torque the nuts down with the tires on the ground under normal load?
    I would check to make sure the bushings went in with the concave portions facing each other , I also left off the washer that held the bumpstop in since it wouldn't fit over that lip on the koni.

    Also i saw you cut a portion of the press on sleeve that the bushings fit snuggly over, does it still extend far enough that both bushings are centered on it ? I don't know if that would make a difference or not.

    I would think you would be able to tell if they were defective when they are out of the car by working the shock through its travel range but who knows maybe the adjustable mechanism broke somehow or something else internally.

    Hopefully you can get it figured out.

  4. #114
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Louisville, Ky
    Posts
    533
    I did torque everything correctly, I also tried different torques to eliminate the clunk.

    I picked up another set of OEM bushings and new sleeves that I am going to install this weekend. I really hope that takes care of it. I had to cut the sleeve to get them off the old shock.

    We will see!
    2009 MT, 17x8 Drag DR-38, General G-Max AS03, Eibach Pro Kit, Koni Yellows Rear, RRM Rear Sway, RRM CAI, RRM Piggy, RRM Pulley, Magnaflow 14210, Primitive Skids, Rally Armor Flaps, Hella Horns, Lathe Werks Shift Knob, All Synthetic Oils

  5. #115
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    1,429
    You have to use those sleeves to center the shaft in the bushings. Otherwise, the shaft will just float around , causing side to side movement.

  6. #116
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Louisville, Ky
    Posts
    533
    Sleeves were used, they had about 1/2" cut off.
    2009 MT, 17x8 Drag DR-38, General G-Max AS03, Eibach Pro Kit, Koni Yellows Rear, RRM Rear Sway, RRM CAI, RRM Piggy, RRM Pulley, Magnaflow 14210, Primitive Skids, Rally Armor Flaps, Hella Horns, Lathe Werks Shift Knob, All Synthetic Oils

  7. #117
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    1,429
    The sleeves need to be long enough to bottom out the compression washer on the sleeve while compressing the rubber bushings.

  8. #118
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Louisville, Ky
    Posts
    533
    Quote Originally Posted by zukiuki View Post
    The sleeves need to be long enough to bottom out the compression washer on the sleeve while compressing the rubber bushings.
    I understand where you are coming from with this, but where do you think anyone is getting these sleeves if they are using any sort of after market suspension? They must be cut off the old shocks and reused.

    I got everything reinstalled installed today and I THINK I eliminated the clunk. Sorta. I realized that one the lower shock mounting nuts was stripped. That side is still making noise. I think it stripped from not having enough threads to engage on with the sway bar mounted. I am going to try to find a replacement tomorrow. If I can find some high grade metric nuts I think I will have solved this mystery.
    2009 MT, 17x8 Drag DR-38, General G-Max AS03, Eibach Pro Kit, Koni Yellows Rear, RRM Rear Sway, RRM CAI, RRM Piggy, RRM Pulley, Magnaflow 14210, Primitive Skids, Rally Armor Flaps, Hella Horns, Lathe Werks Shift Knob, All Synthetic Oils

  9. #119
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    1,429
    Wish you all the best.

  10. #120
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Louisville, Ky
    Posts
    533
    Well, got new hardware installed and all torqued up. Still getting noise from one side.

    At this point it has to be an issue with the sway bar and the Koni shocks or a defective shock. I was going to take the sway bar off to paint it. Will see if that was some how magically making the noise.... I doubt it ran it for 3 years with no issues before the Koni install.
    2009 MT, 17x8 Drag DR-38, General G-Max AS03, Eibach Pro Kit, Koni Yellows Rear, RRM Rear Sway, RRM CAI, RRM Piggy, RRM Pulley, Magnaflow 14210, Primitive Skids, Rally Armor Flaps, Hella Horns, Lathe Werks Shift Knob, All Synthetic Oils

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