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vitus1978
May 5th, 2011, 04:17 PM
Hey guys just a quicky, i ordered my new rims and tires and am going to have an alignment done. how much torque should the shop put on the nuts..... i'm still organizing my new palace and for the life of me i can't find the owners manual.

Schultzey
May 5th, 2011, 04:42 PM
85Nm (61.5 lb-ft, 8.5 kg-m)

vitus1978
May 5th, 2011, 05:57 PM
thank you very much....
i will be posting pics as soon as i have them installed.

The Shadow
May 13th, 2011, 06:46 AM
If you think you will be taking off your wheels yourself, for any reason, like maybe tire rotation, pick up a 1/2" drive Torque Wrench.
Harbor Freight Tools, has them on sale from time to time, for just $9.95. You should never have to pay more than $24.95 for one.

Even the Oil Filter has a torque spec. (10 ft/lb) A 3/8" drive Torque Wrench is perfect for that. Again, $9.95 on sale at Harbor Freight Tools.

Keep looking for that Owners Manual. It has the answers to MANY questions.

Cheers Mate!
:cool:

Schultzey
May 13th, 2011, 03:38 PM
If you don't end up finding your owner's manual there is a digital version available in the technical forum/stickied thread (http://clubsx4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5).

Balansero
May 13th, 2011, 06:23 PM
i'm still organizing my new palace and for the life of me i can't find the owners manual.

It's ok that you've stolen the car, no needs to explain the lack of manual. :D I keep mine in the drawer under the co-drivers seat so that the car is kept well maintained even if stolen. :hi:

TomC
May 14th, 2011, 04:05 AM
It's ok that you've stolen the car, no needs to explain the lack of manual. :D I keep mine in the drawer under the co-drivers seat so that the car is kept well maintained even if stolen. :hi:

It's a good idea to keep a copy of your driver's license & spare house key there too :P

The Shadow
May 14th, 2011, 11:06 AM
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g90/DrWho1943/TorqueDown.jpg

If for any reason, you have to take a wheel off the car, always put the lug nuts back on with a torque wrench. In the above picture,,,,, my replacement lug nuts were starting to rust, so I cleaned them up and painted them with black RustOleum paint.

I will not go into any tire shop that does not use a Torque Wrench to tighten the lug nuts. And, if I need to get a tire fixed or replaced somewhere that does not have a Torque Wrench, I will loan them mine.

In this picture, you can see the 25" Breaker Bar, that I use for loosening the lug nuts. It takes all the stress and strain out of changing a tire. With a wrench like this, even a petite little lady could change a tire. (just a thought)
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g90/DrWho1943/Tire%20Rotation/RotateStep4.jpg

Cheers Mates!
:cool:

n45w73
May 16th, 2011, 04:12 PM
85Nm (61.5 lb-ft, 8.5 kg-m)

i put 70lb-ft on my wheels ... i personaly found 62 way to low (but that is what the manual says)...
also be sure to retorque your nuts after few days, you will often find some that need it ...

NSSX4Driver
April 16th, 2013, 01:30 PM
The OEM wheel studs are a bit soft. Had a shop that stripped them because of too much torque. Learned a lesson to carry that torque wrench in the car at all times and insist on the right torque numbers.

2007 Black SX4 JLX in NB Canada

polarbear
April 16th, 2013, 01:39 PM
i put 70lb-ft on my wheels ... i personaly found 62 way to low (but that is what the manual says)...
also be sure to retorque your nuts after few days, you will often find some that need it ...

Me too!!!! guilty as charged:eek:

Edsky
April 16th, 2013, 01:45 PM
I set the harbor freight 1/2" torquer to 65 lbs. Figure that it could be off a few percent, so I set it a bit higher than the manual specifies. I also use a 25" breaker bar to loosen the nuts. I use a 12 volt lithium Dewalt driver to spin the nuts off and then to spin them on. Then it takes maybe a quarter turn to torque them. This speeds up a tire rotation or whatever.

Yesterday, I remove the 4 wheels, cleaned up the inside of the wheels and hubs and put a thin layer of anti-seize on the contact area between the hub and wheel. Hopefully, this will make it easier to separate the wheels from the hubs in the future.

pico23
April 16th, 2013, 01:51 PM
I use a 24volt impact wrench for removing the nuts. I use a digital torque wrench which seems to be accurate to about 1-2%, to retorque.

you can get the digital wrench from Harbor Freight, and it basically turns any drive ratchet into a highly accurate torque wrench.

my rotations/wheel swaps take 15 minutes,

Pete the Pirate
April 16th, 2013, 04:10 PM
Ditto on the contact area. My wheels had a dissimilar metal bond at the first 6K rotation. Since I always get some antisieze on the threads anyway I put an equal blob on all. 62 Ft Lbs comes up mighty quick, and probably equals more like 75 dry. They stay on just fine.

Wagoneer
April 16th, 2013, 06:16 PM
Holy thread revival batman! I also do 65. I'm used to my Volvos being wheel bolts, not studs, so 65 seems way too loose to me. So it makes me paranoid and I go back and check them every few weeks just to be safe.

Edsky
April 16th, 2013, 06:39 PM
Holy thread revival batman! I also do 65. I'm used to my Volvos being wheel bolts, not studs, so 65 seems way too loose to me. So it makes me paranoid and I go back and check them every few weeks just to be safe.

And I even cheat a little on the 65. I let the tool click and then give it a little more.

Neezy
April 16th, 2013, 09:33 PM
Omg. F that . 100 ft lbs. 119000 miles lol

CF7
April 17th, 2013, 12:11 PM
65ft/lb for me..go back couple day to retorque. no antiseize compound on thread but on the wheel mating surfaces.

Neezy
April 17th, 2013, 02:33 PM
I've never torqued alloy wheels less than 100

keviiinn
April 17th, 2013, 05:01 PM
I just pulled the trigger on some Motorsport Tech Adaptec spacers. any idea on what to torque the spacers to the hub to? I guess the stock 62 ft/lbs or so? what about the torque for bolting the OEM wheels to the studs on the spacers?

Wagoneer
April 17th, 2013, 06:33 PM
The manufacturer should always include torque specs with the spacers. But most of the time it's whatever the stock studs are, which is 62ft lbs. It's all about at what point the studs stretch. Most of the time people think over-torquing is safer, but in reality it stretches the metal to it's tensile limits and they end up snapping.

ARP is constantly in a battle with people saying they're head bolts are crap but it always ends with unproper torque specs. It's not that they're stronger, they just have a higher tensile strength, but you can still torque the crap out of them to the point where they snap just like any other bolt.

But with a 2900lb car with 5 bolt hubs, it's not a huge deal. The chances of snapping a stud is very slim.